|
Happy Spring to everyone, we hope you all had a good winter season and are now ready to enjoy some nice weather. Bill and I are looking forward to the nicer weekends with more people on the streets of Red Bank. We have a new neighbor, Cold Stone Creamery, so you now have two good reasons to stop by our end of the block. Although it’s not exactly the same as having gelato in Florence it is pretty good. Speaking of which, our winter trip to Italy was great as usual, although this time we did encounter some snow. As a matter of fact we left here on the day of the bad storm (January 23rd) and it caught up to us again in Umbria a few days into our trip. Nonetheless we had a great time and have some nice new things coming in this next shipment. Speaking of something new, some of you may remember Andrea & Cinzia our friends from Ivrea who helped us out our first holiday season. Well they’ve gotten into another adventure as proprietors of a Bed & Bedfast in Piemonte. We also have some info on a great cantina we’ve been to in Tuscany. And last but not least we are now on the web and ready to serve you from the convenience of your own home. Hope you enjoy. Laura and Bill Snow Italian StyleThis year Italy experienced a bit more of the nasty weather than they’re accustomed to seeing. As a matter of fact on one occasion we experienced first hand the effects of a heavy snowfall Italian style. We had left Deruta, where roads were dry; heading for Gubbio, a hill town |
north of Perugia, which we knew had some snow the night before. Keep in mind that road cleaning is nothing like here and even if they wanted to they don’t have anywhere near the equipment to handle large snowfalls. The trip on the highway was uneventful and the roads were clear and dry. At the exit for Gubbio we came upon a roadblock and the policeman was asking everyone to see his or her chains. We explained that we were visitors with a leased car and had no chains. They were very nice and explained that without chains we were not going anywhere near Gubbio as the roads were terrible. We were directed to a conveniently located coffee bar and proceeded to spend the next three hours hanging out with the truckers, who also had no chains, until Paolo Biagioli and his friend arrived from Gubbio with a set of chains for us. Needless to say when we arrived in Gubbio we parked the car and it didn’t move until it was time to depart. We were actually fortunate in our situation, as over the next several days the weather in central and southern Italy was such that even the highway between Salerno and Reggio-Calabria was closed and people were stranded in their cars. The moral of the story is if you travel in Italy or anywhere in Europe in the winter months make sure you have chains unless you like lots of espresso and truck drivers. Toscana che BellaWe only spent two days in Tuscany but as usual they were great. We stayed in Artimino again and came upon one of those memorable meals |
that you end up thinking about for months afterwards.
We had checked into one of our favorites Albergo Paggeria Medicea (www.artimino.com) and had casually mentioned to the desk manager our dinner plans for the next two nights. Alberto agreed with our choices but then informed us that their ristorante Biagio Pignatta was having a special Cena del Pesce (seafood dinner) on Saturday night for their regular customers.
He said since we are frequent hotel guests he was sure he could arrange a table for us. We hesitated briefly, because we had never been to an Italian “customer appreciation” dinner and thought perhaps we did not have the appropriate cloths etc. But fortunately we decided to give it a try. Needless to say we had a wonderful multi-course dinner that |
|
included the appropriate wines for each dish. Afterwards we spoke with the manager who told us they periodically do these special customer dinners, which have become very popular.
We had spent Saturday driving thru Chianti country with our destination being Greve in Chianti. Unfortunately the wineries were all closed for the winter but as it turned out we found the next best thing. Located near the center of town Le Cantine di Greve in Chianti is an old refurbished block of wine cellars that stood unused for 30 years and now has been transformed into a great wine tasting room.
There were hundreds of wines available for tasting and also many Tuscan olive oils. There is also a very interesting collection of antique wine corkscrews and winemaking paraphernalia. It’s definitely worth a visit. Afterwards we took a stroll to the main piazza (Matteotti) where there is a statue of the explorer Giovanni da |
Verrazzano (yes we named a bridge after him) who was born nearby. On the piazza is another must see, the Macelleria Falorni at number 69-71, this butcher shop has been in the Falorni family for eight generations. Stefano Falorni, revived a near-extinct breed of local free-ranging hogs to produce his salami and ham. He employs 40 people raising the distinctive black and white hogs and producing his specialty meat products. Seeing all this great food naturally made us hungry so we headed over to a trattoria we had heard about for some lunch.
Gallo Nero located at Via C. Battisti, 9 is a wonderful family owned local trattoria in what used to be a stable, which has been completely renovated. The food, wine and staff were great. www.pizzeriagallnero.it We definitely recommend that on your next trip to Tuscany you include some time to explore Chianti the region of the black rooster.
Torino
Update
The city of Turin is counting down the days till the Olympics begin in February 2006. It has undergone a lot of change, but all within the context of its historical significance as the seat of the House of Savoy |
whose rein lasted for nine centuries. A new tramline has been built and several new parking areas near major attractions like Palazzo Madama are being constructed.
Our friends Luciano and Mariella were anxious to test the new tram so one afternoon we headed to the Cascinette exit of autostrada A5 on the outskirts of Torino and boarded the brand new number 4 tram headed for the center of town. The trip was a pleasant experience and was certainly much easier than driving into the city. It also provides a relaxing way to see some of the neighborhoods of Torino. Once in the city we did some window-shopping, it’s an ideal place for the evening passeggiata (stroll), and enjoyed a gelato at Pepino, a Torino landmark.
If you go you’ll need a couple of days to see the city’s highlights, Piazza San Carlo, Cattedrale di San Giovanni, Egyptian Museum, Palazzo Reale. Not to be missed is Caffé Torino where each afternoon |
|
bar is laden with a wonderful assortment of
appetizers which can be enjoyed for the price of an aperitivo. www.torino2006.org Chocaholics DelightWhenever we are in my hometown of Ivrea it seems like our friends feel like they have to keep us busy so we don’t get bored. That usually leads to some great discoveries like the afternoon that Mariella, who likes her chocolate, got a craving for some sweets. We headed to the tiny town of San Giorgio. Our destination was Pasticceria Roletti, which has been owned by the Roletti family since 1896.
Conveniently located to the nearby Savoy residence in Agliè, and a supplier to the Royal household and the Duke of Genova, its illustrious guests have included Queen Margherita of Savoy and the beautiful Duchess of Pistoia who came here with the excuse of buying the biscuits named after her and, it is rumored, to enjoy the delights of romantic encounters. We made a selection of pastries and ordered hot chocolate. The owner directed us to a small table in the back room to sit and enjoy our treats. The hot chocolate was a |
chocoholic’s dream, thick and creamy with a wonderful dark chocolate flavor. We enjoyed our pastries just as much and didn’t want to leave. Via Carlo Alberto, 28 San Giorgio Tel 0124 32123
Storico Carnevale di IvreaOne of the benefits of traveling to Italy in February is that we usually are in my hometown of Ivrea for part of Carnival or Carnevale as we say in Italian. While most Italian cities of any size celebrate the week before lent in some form or fashion Ivrea has one of the more famous celebrations following closely behind Venice and Viareggio. Rather than the costume balls etc. of Venice the Storico Carnevale di Ivrea is more of a historical reenactment of several periods in the city’s history. Unfortunately, the part most known to the world is the infamous Battaglia di Arance (the orange battles), which are usually shown as 10-second sound bites on news programs around the world. As any native of Ivrea, or Canavesana as we are called, will attest, Carnevale in Ivrea is a special time when the townspeople recreate, at their own expense, a pageant which celebrates the independence of the city from oppressive rulers; Count Raineri di Biandrate in 1194, the Marchese del Monferrato in |
1266, and Napoleons troops in the early 1800’s.
The pageant plays out over several months beginning in January with the announcement of the Generale, one of the two major characters, and the presentation of the Abba.
The abba are children, two from each of the five parishes of Ivrea, who replaced the abbots or lay priors who had taken part in the individual parish carnival celebrations prior to the consolidation in 1808.
Likewise, the character of the Generale goes back to the first combined carnevale in 1808, which |
|
took place when Ivrea was under the rule of Napolean.
While there are other historical events which occur in the interim, the activities intensify on the Thursday before Ash Wednesday when the mayor turns over control of the city to the Generale and his staff known as the Stato Maggiore who are dressed as cavalrymen of Napoleon’s army.
There is also the appearance of the Sostituto Gran Cancelliere a position added in 1808 which is responsible for recording the activities of each years Carnevale in a special book as has been done for almost 200 years. His assistants, and Bill’s favorite characters, are the Vivandiere, four young ladies who accompany the Gran Cancelliere. This entourage led by the Pifferi e Tamburi (fife and drum corps) march through town and to |
the Duomo to pay their respects to the Vescovo (Bishop) of Ivrea.
Nothing of importance happens on Friday as everyone is preparing for the Saturday night announcement of the person who will play the Mugnaia or millers daughter the heroine of the Carnevale. Every little girl in Ivrea grows up with the dream of someday being the Mugnaia and the position is not taken lightly. Unfortunately, because everything is paid for by the townspeople themselves it is a very expensive proposition to be the Mugnaia or the Generale. The name of the Mugnaia is a closely guarded secret until 9 p.m. on Saturday night when the townspeople crowd into the main square of Ivrea to hear the announcement. To be continued next issue. www.GilardiniUSA.com
We are happy to announce that we are now part of the world-wide web with the recent launching of www.GilardiniUSA.com . Thanks to our web designer, long-time customer Joe Conklin for a great job. We hope you’ll check it out and as always your feedback is much appreciated. Now that we have the site operational we hope to help save some trees by sending as many future newsletters as possible via email. If you’d like to receive your copy via email please send us an email at info@gilardiniusa.com. |
The newsletters will also be posted on the web page for future reference. Off the Beaten Path in Piemonte If you were in the store during our first holiday season in 2000 you may remember our two Italian guests Andrea Stabile and Cinzia Zanellato from my hometown. They had come not only to visit but also to help out with our new venture. Well it seems they are attracted to new ventures because they are now the innkeepers for a new bed and breakfast La Foresteria in Loranze Alto located north of Torino.
The Foresteria was originally a convent built in the 1700’s; it is located on a private, tranquil hillside among vineyards and quiet fields with spectacular views of the Serra Morenica valley below. The Foresteria has 6 bedrooms, each with private bath, television and Internet access. There is even a small chapel on the premises, which is used occasionally for weddings. It’s a great location especially for those who want to experience the beauty of the countryside and avoid the rates of the big cities. For more information call Andrea at 011.39.0125.669065 or visit www.la-foresteria.com |